Zipper… WTF?!?!?

So, I just destroyed invisible zipper number 2 on my birthday dress. I put in a waist stay (thanks for the idea Ginger!!!). I’m pretty sure that would have worked in normal circumstances, but I took out all of the ease. My bad! I’m glad I learned this now before cutting into my expensive silk. I don’t think I’m going to use my silk for this design. It wasn’t overly difficult, but I’m *over* making this design. I made two bodice muslins and this version. I’m looking forward to new projects.

This time the zipper pull came completely off of one side of the track. I’m just going to get a sturdier non-invisible zipper. Majuhh bummah.

Vogue 1227: A Sneak Peak

So I basically finished my birthday dress last night. This dress is TIGHT. I need a buddy to help me get into it. I’m pretty sure that means I overfitted, but it’s sort of a necessity. I probably could stand to have about 1 cm more ease in the bodice, but this thing is banging and I’m not ripping out any of those seams or the topstitching. I’ll just make sure to not eat a big meal when I wear this. This photo is super crappy because I took it with my cell phone to show my husband. I had no plans for it to make my blog, but I wanted to share my progress. And now the reason why I don’t have a better photo to show…

WTF?!?!?! As of last night at 10:30 I only had to finish slip stitching the bodice lining down and I would have been done. But then tragedy struck (yes, I’m being a little dramatic). I tried it on to show my husband when he got home from work, and the zipper split!!!!! I think having a dress this tight was just too much for that poor plastic invisible zipper. I’m pissed, because I had that baby in perfectly. Now I need to get another zipper before this will be finished. I’m not sure when I’ll be able to make it to the zipper store.

Since the invisible zipper broke I think I need to get something more substantial. I’m toying with the idea of getting a thick metal zip and leaving it exposed in the back. My only concern is that I think the exposed zip trend is over. Stupid fracking zipper!

Tutorial: How to Insert Piping on a Western Shirt

I’ve begun work on my mister’s Christmas gift and I thought I would put together a quick how-to. I had originally planned on adding black piping, but I realized with the orange and black fabric and the “spider-webiness”  of the yoke design it would look Halloweenie. And by realize, I mean that I woke up in a panic thinking about how I was making a Halloween shirt for Christmas. What would Michael Kors say? Oh the horror!! The solution was simple, switch to white piping.

When you purchase store bought piping there are two sides. One that is flat and one that sticks out. You want the part that sticks out to be on the right side of your fabric. The best way to attach the piping is to hand baste it to your fabric. I have used machine basting as well as tried Wonder Tape and you just don’t have the control you need to get around tight curves. Hand stitching is the only way to have total control of where your piping will lay on the finished garment. I like to use an obvious mismatched color so that it can be removed easily later.

Once your piping is basted on and you’re ready to start sewing on your machine. It’s easiest if you switch to your zipper foot. This foot allows you to get as close as possible to the piping. Go slowly around the curves, and make sure that you always leave the needle in it’s down position whenever you lift the presser foot.

As soon as you’re are finished sewing your piping in with the machine, it’s time to pull out your handy dandy seam ripper.  I’m intimately acquainted with mine. Get to work removing your hand basting. Go slowly and try to not catch any of the fibers of your fabric.

Voilà, you have perfectly placed piping.

In sad news when I got around to basting the front band to the sew-in interfacing this is what I saw. Yikes! The bias really is stretchy. Now the band is about 2 inches longer than the pattern piece and about half an inch too thin. It’s now too skinny to work as the front band so I will have to recut those pieces tomorrow morning (yuck! I *hate* cuting). Good thing I bought a little extra fabric. I definately reached the end of my sewing patience when I saw that. Adios!