Vogue 1227: My Birthday Dress is Done

Well, she’s done. I finally finished Vogue 1227, and while it didn’t go as smoothly as I would have liked, I don’t feel totally defeated. My plan was for this to be a cute country-girl wearable muslin, and then to make this dress out of some pretty green silk I have. Now I know I don’t want to touch this pattern for a long time. But I do enjoy this version, So I’ll wear it gladly at my 90’s party this weekend.

The bra cups gape some, or just don’t fit right. Also, they were sitting weird when my husband took these photos. I think they’re too small for my bust. This dress is also drafted way to large! I had to take out 2 inches of ease in the size 12 (which is already going down a size). I think a good starting point if you want to make this dress is to start 2 sizes smaller than you measure. I should have made a 10, but unfortunately my size is on the border of the sizing of the two pattern envelopes and the 12 was the smallest in the pattern I purchased. Therefore, I had to increase all of my seam allowances to 7/8″.

When I sewed the cups into the bodice, they didn’t fit all of the way. Instead of doing something very precise, I just cut them down at the edges to match up with the bodice. That makes them slightly differ from each other.

And then there was the zipper. If you want to make this pattern I recommend you forgo trying to install an invisible zipper. This dress is just too fitted for an invisible zipper to support it. I noticed that Lauren also had a problem with her zipper. My first zipper broke, then I put in a second invisible zipper after I had added a waist stay (and that broke), and then I just added a normal zipper. I recommend that if you want to make this dress to plan ahead and insert a lapped zipper, so that it is hidden.

 

Vogue 1227: A Sneak Peak

So I basically finished my birthday dress last night. This dress is TIGHT. I need a buddy to help me get into it. I’m pretty sure that means I overfitted, but it’s sort of a necessity. I probably could stand to have about 1 cm more ease in the bodice, but this thing is banging and I’m not ripping out any of those seams or the topstitching. I’ll just make sure to not eat a big meal when I wear this. This photo is super crappy because I took it with my cell phone to show my husband. I had no plans for it to make my blog, but I wanted to share my progress. And now the reason why I don’t have a better photo to show…

WTF?!?!?! As of last night at 10:30 I only had to finish slip stitching the bodice lining down and I would have been done. But then tragedy struck (yes, I’m being a little dramatic). I tried it on to show my husband when he got home from work, and the zipper split!!!!! I think having a dress this tight was just too much for that poor plastic invisible zipper. I’m pissed, because I had that baby in perfectly. Now I need to get another zipper before this will be finished. I’m not sure when I’ll be able to make it to the zipper store.

Since the invisible zipper broke I think I need to get something more substantial. I’m toying with the idea of getting a thick metal zip and leaving it exposed in the back. My only concern is that I think the exposed zip trend is over. Stupid fracking zipper!

Vogue 1227: Bodice Version 2

I think I’ve got it in the bag friends! You just got up close and personal with my girls. I made some revisions to the bodice of my upcoming dress and I’ve got the fit dialed in. The only issue is a little bit of gaping at the top of the cups that needs to be dealt with. All in all,  I think I look pretty bodacious in this top. This reminds me of the bombshell dress by Gertie. Maybe I should take her course for guidance. Anybody taken it? I’m a cheap-o and $30 could buy more fabric :)

When I made this per pattern directions I had about 2 inches of excess ease in the bodice. The bra cups, however, were my size. I increased the seam allowances to 7/8″ in the bodice and yoke pieces, while leaving the bra cups as they were. This did make easing the cups into the bodice a little more tricky, since the bodice was the much smaller. I tried something to help me ease them on one side. I made a line of basting stitches just inside the seam allowance all the way around. then I clipped just shy of this line. This helped me clip *deeply* enough to aid in easing to make easing without clipping too far. I’m not sure if this is a good technique though, I sort of just winged it.

You should also check out this song. I’ve been listening to this (and the whole album) on repeat for the last month. Obsessed!

Vogue 1227: Muslin #1

So I pulled out Vogue 1227 to make a muslin for my birthday dress. I was nervous about this because the only review I found was by Lladybird (only one person has made this in the whole blogsphere?!?!?) , she made this sound like a bitch to sew up and alter. I’m a little skurred. It is supah dupah cute though, so I’m going to give it the old college try. I’m having a 90’s dance party and I want to be fly.

I have tons of this ugly batik print I purchased at the thrift store, so I decided to make the whole dress as opposed to just the bodice. Practice makes perfect ya’ll. I had some concerns that the dress would be too short. This isn’t hemmed, but it will only be about half an inch shorter when completed. I’m okay with this length, (but I did get myself some matching boy short panties to wear just in case I get too tipsy to remain a lady).

This dress calls for tons of top stitching, so I pulled out some hot pink thread to practice. I don’t want to have a wonky mess on my final dress. I was able to, more or less, sew all of those parallel lines straight, but I had a hard time matching up the top stitching at the seams. Any tips on on how to do that other than, if they don’t match, rip out and try again? I don’t want to shred my fabric.

The bra cups were a little tricky to sew; very curvy and small. I just need to remember to go sloooooooow. I think I also put the top band in upside down so I’m going to flip it and reverse it for try #2. I practiced inserting the boning under the cups, just like in a bra. The cups fit mah boobies fine. The edge of the cups, don’t match up with with fabric in between my breasts. In the picture they do (poorly drafted or user error?), so I might need to do some finagling.

The only adjustment that needs to be made is to take ease out of the bodice. I cut a size 12, even though I measure at a size 14, but it was still huge. The top of this dress was so big that it gaped and showed all of my bust (not ladylike at all). My husband helped me out by pinching out the excess and marking it with a chalk pen. I need to take 2 inches out of the bodice. There are 8 seams in the bodice and yoke, so if increase all of my seam allowances by a quarter of an inch, that should take out all of the excess. Is that an acceptable alteration or should I change the pattern pieces? That sounds scary to me.

I have midterms this week and it’s been dumping snow on the mountain (I love love love skiing), so it might be a little while until I can mock up the bodice a second time. If that works out, I have some calico in my stash to make a wearable muslin that is fully lined, interfaced, and boned. I think it will make a cute country-girl summer dress. I want to try out all of the techniques required in this dress, before I cut into my expensive silk. I have a month and 2 days until my birthday, so I should be fine.

Yeah, I still went back there. What?